Two days ago I thought I´d be sailing to La Paz. Today I´m in posting blogs in Rivas, Nicaragua. Let me explain what happened...
Picture this...
Two men sit across from one another at a table. One is 40-something and swimming in the ocean of mid-life crises. The other is 20-something, and still fresh from importation into adulthood.
-One man sips coffee -- black, the other drinks Yerba Mate.
-One man listens to Rush Limbaugh over the SSB Radio while the other reads Noam Chomsky.
-One owns a boat, property in the US and hates taxes. The other owns close to nothing, travels to surf, and fantasizes of ex-patriotism in third world surf meccas.
-One surfs because it´s his religion, the other prefers deep-sea fishing.
-One is short and the other is tall.
-How long can these two individuals live in peace on 44 feet of floating fiberglass? NOT LONG!
After a couple of verbal mishaps, late nights in Cabo, things being broken, dingys flipping and general differences of opinion, Carlos and I agreed it was time to abandon the Bogtrotter. The Captain concurred.
Carlos flew home for the holidays, and I, well, I flew to Managua. It was the cheapest flight into Central America and it´s probably the least touristed place I could imagine.
It took me 30 hours of travel, via plane from Cabo to Mexico City where I stayed in the airport overnight and caught a plane to San Salvador, where I ran to make another flight to Managua, Nicaragua. Then I got off that plane, got jipped by a taxi driver to the busstation and hopped on a bus to Rivas. I got a room last night and now I´m waiting for the bus in Rivas that will take me to Popollo where finally, I WILL SURF.
Traveling alone has been intensely exciting. I used almost no English the entire time yet I was having conversations in Spanish with people in the airport, buying bus tickets, finding rooms, etc. I was the only white dude on the plane (all three), the bus, the hospedaje, and so far while walking around Rivas, the only white dude in town.
People don´t stare like I look out of place. I guess that is because I´m alone. I have a mustache too, which always helps.
The change of plans happened so quickly that I hadn´t any time to buy a guidebook. I wish I could spit a few paragraphs on the history of Rivas. I can tell you that the buildings look very colonial and many are still riddled with bullet holes.
When I walked down the street this morning, it became obvious that Rivas was where major Saldestina battles were faught. Blame the Republicans. This place is peacefull now, the people normal and beautiful as Central Americanos tend to be (especially the mujeres). Still, there was some serious urban combat going on here, not too long ago.
I was given the wrong key to my room last night, when I woke the father of the house to get the right key, he held a gun in his right hand. What can I say? This isn´t Costa Rica.
I´ve got a few hours of waiting here in Rivas. I also expect that it will be my last post for a while, I doubt there is internet where I´m going.
Buena Suerte everyone. This post made me start thinking in English again, I wasn´t thinking to myself much before, because I was thinking in Spanish. Please visualize me getting barreled in Popollo because I need to score some waves. Thanks everyone.
Adios.